Installing a Tile Mosaic Backsplash

Installing a Tile Mosaic BacksplashToday we’re going to be looking at how to install a tile mosaic backsplash.   I have already started some of it here yesterday actually, and I am going to finish this last little bit here. So the tile we are using is basically a twelve by twelve tile and we are going to end up cutting it to make it work for what we want to do.

So you can see in this particular tile, we have got various different materials in it, there is glass, there are stones, couple of different stones in there, some stainless panels as well so there is a little bit of everything in this tile. So basically you just start by determining what the best fit is for how you are going to need to cut the tile, this tile is attached, it’s all little individual pieces bit it’s attached to what’s a mesh backing so it’s really easy to cut, I just need to determine where I am cutting it, must be the same as these pieces, I am going to cut it here.

So just take your utility knife, stick it in between the rows and just cut that mesh off. Now this one, we are cutting a few rows out of it, it just didn’t work for the space we had and we are reusing some of those pieces to fill in so I am just making up my pieces here. Typically, if you weren’t working with a restricted height, you would just cut that tile in half or use the full tile and go ahead with it but we had a height restriction there so we had to modify the sheets a little bit to make them work so this will just simply interlock with the last piece you left off and you can see I have got rows above that yet.

So in this case, all I was doing was cutting the appropriately sized tiles off of the strips that we took off from filling in those last two rows just to make it work out for what we wanted. So to begin, I am going to be using some glue, adhesive to put these on because we are not really in a wet zone and by that, we are not in a shower, we are not in a bathtub, we can use this.  But, you shouldn’t use it in a shower or a wet zone like that because this will just promote mould growth so you definitely don’t want to use it there but on a backsplash application, it will work just fine.

So there are a couple of different ways you can do it, you can take your time with the appropriate trial and apply it to the wall and start sticking your tiles on. Because I was leaving off last night, I didn’t want to get any on the wall that was going to be… I didn’t want to have any left in trying to clear these areas because I knew I was going to stop last night and not finish the job so I am just applying it on the back of the tile and I will just continue doing that here today for the amount we have left.

Kitchen Backsplash InstallationSo make sure you have your tile cut right, how you wanted. Simply take some mastic and apply it on the back of the tiles. So you are just rubbing it on there, try not to force it down, we are obviously putting it on the back side but try not to force it down into the grope line joints because then you will have more cleaning up to do to get it out of there so you have space for the grout. So I am just dabbing it onto the tiles as much as I can and then I will just go across… stroke it out so it’s leaving some ridges. I am sure you can see the ridges I have there on the mastic. Ok so once I have it, I will just take it up to the wall, the general area that I am going and stick it on the wall, I want to push every individual tile on there, if you have a rubber… float for doing grout or whatever, you can use it to press this all on and then just slide your tile on way or the other to get your grout lines where they bud into the last one to space out the amount you want.

Looks like I can get one more on here before we are going to deal with that plug in and switch so I will stick that one on. I am just trying to make sure every tile has mastic on it, work your way along there, I find that when you are in a tight space like this, it’s easier to put it on the tile as well, then you are not getting it over the counter top or another area on the wall that you don’t want it. So I will just put it on here, like that. Ok so I have pulled the plug ins and switches out, turned the breakers off, just for safety so if I touch something, I don’t get a shock.

Fixing Damaged Hardwood Floors – Part 2

Now we’re just going to continue on from our first part of fixing this old, damaged hardwood floor.  If you missed the first part, you can catch up on it here.

Fixing Damaged Hardwood Floors 2Now I’m just going to get this all cleaned up and then we’ll cut our next, our new piece of flooring, I’ll show you that one it’s all done and how to install. Okay so we’ve cleaned this all up, we’ve vacuumed it all out, we made sure that we didn’t have any woodchips down underneath here and we also cut out the paper that was underneath there, there will usually be some kind of underlayment paper type product under there so we cut that out so they are glue can glue right to the old subfloor, I’ve manufactured a piece of flooring to go in there.

Now the flooring normally, oh yeah here’s a piece here, this is what it normally would look like. So you have your grove on two edges and your tongue on two edges, now we need to cut some of that off in order to be able to get it in because we obviously can’t get it all fit together like a puzzle like it was before. So in this case, I left the grove on this one edge but it actually cut everything else off, I cut the grove off of this end and I actually cut this edge on a babble you can see there.

So I cut off the tongue that was there and also babbled the piece so it will tip in there a little easier and I slightly babbled this end as well when I cut it to length, now this particular flooring has a slight babbler on each edge and that’s why you kind of see the little bit of grooves here. So because this piece was cut out of a longer piece of stalk, I’ve got a factory end here but I didn’t on this end so I babbled that in like I said and I slightly sanded this edge to give it a babble again and you can steam it or color it so that it blends in with what you did.

Fixing Damaged Hardwood FloorsI actually just took a felt jiffy marker and just put a line there so it creates a shadow and it won’t look any different than any of the other joints. So now something else I did, I added these two pieces of tape on here and really those are just handles to help me get it out if I need to get it back out of here, once you go so far, it’s not going to come out with these handles but if I just drop it in there and need to readjust it or something, I can usually pull it out with these pieces of tape and I just simply cut them off after.

So I am going to do just a bit of a dry fit to make sure it fits in nice. So I need to kind of tip it at the right reaction, get everything lined up and down in the right spots here, there we go, okay. So it looks like it’s going to go, I don’t want to pound it in cause I don’t have any glue under there but I look like my length is good, width is going to be snug but it usually is, so I am going to pull that back out, I can actually take these off cause there’s no going back at this point, I’m just going to make it fit so I’m going to use some construction adhesive right on to subfloor cause we won’t be able to nail this one after, we could face nail it if we needed to.

But generally the glue itself will hold things together quite well. I’m just going to squeeze a little bit under the edge of this backboard since it won’t be held down quite as good as it was before, give it a little bit extra, so that’s lots of glue under there and I’ll just get my piece in there, now usually with most adhesives, that construction adhesive, it’s nice to be able to put your piece in and pull it back out, just for a second to let that gas off but we’re not going to have that option in this case, it’s just got to go in once and that’s going to be it.

So I’ve got things lined up, I’m pretty happy with how things are going to fit, now I’m just going to take a piece of scrap and tap this down in there, you could use a rubber mallet as well just to maneuver it back in to the spot that it’s got to go and try not to damage any of the flooring around it, so I’ve kind of got this end started, this end is going to go, want to be careful that we don’t splinter the ends as it drops down in there as well, it’s gone.

So once that groove sets up, you’ll never really be able to tell that there was anything done to it, we’ve got a nice joint, both ends, looks just like it did before we pulled it out other than we don’t have that big split at the end of it. Okay so that’s the way I know of for getting that flooring out, it’s not the easiest thing to do, it takes a bit of a time but if you just go slow and are just real careful about not damaging anything else, you shouldn’t have too much problems. Obviously dry fit it like we did to be sure it’s going to go and just take your time.

Dealing With Damaged Hardwood Floors

cracked hardwood floorcracked hardwood floorcracked hardwood floorToday we’re going to be looking at dealing with hardwood floors – more specifically, fixing damaged flooring.  I have got a problem here with this hardwood flooring, we have got some damage to it, it’s actually cracked. Right here you can see it splintered out right there so it’s too far gone and we can’t just repair it so I need to cut that complete board out of there. It’s a little hard to tell now because I have got the tape on the surrounding area to protect it but this is actually one piece from there to there and here to here so what we are going to do is show you how to remove that piece and fit a new one in there and hopefully you won’t be able to tell we did anything.

So to start off, what I want to do is use some tape to protect the surrounding floor so I don’t scratch it or damage it because what we are going to do is I am going to drill a couple of three quarter inch holes really close to the ends of the new board or the old board and then I am going to take a circular saw and make about three cuts from end to end of the board. So I have got to run this all over the flooring and stuff like that so we are just trying to protect the surrounding floor so we don’t have a bigger area to fix then we already do.

One thing to be cautious of when doing this is not to cut too close to the edges of your board because there will be some kind of nails or staples underneath there so you don’t want to cut through them hopefully and end up getting a piece in your eye or something, we definitely want to be wearing some safety glasses and that’s a basic thing. So I am going to drill my holes, make my cuts with the saw then I will use a chisel to whittle away it to get the piece broken into two or three pieces and get it out of there.

repairing hardwood floorsSo anyways, I am going to go ahead and start. So one thing we want to be cautious of is not drilling too far so we want to get through this board and just slightly into the subfloor below but we don’t want to punch the hole right through. You can tell the difference, you will start to see some different material coming up then you know that you have likely gotten through to the sub floor. I should have brought the vacuum over to get rid of these woodchips, trying to keep the area clean so that there is less chance of scratching or marking anything up.

Move that out of the way, now I am going to make the cuts with the circular saw so I have set the depth of the blade about an eighth of an inch deeper than what the thickness of the floor is and I am going to make my cuts, I don’t want to cut past the ends of my board I am trying to take out or I will end up damaging the next piece so you have to be real careful.

We have obvisoulsy created a lot of dust. I am going to vacuum that up. Ok, so we have got our basic cuts made, we will see if that will be enough. So now what I am trying to do, because these boards are sealed on all four edges, everything is locked together with the surrounding pieces so what I am trying to do is get the centre of this board out of here so that I can pry the edges in and get them out of the groove.

So I am going to take a chisel here and hack this apart hoping to get everything to come free. Actually, I am going to drill one more hole in the middle here that should help. A couple of more holes will get things loosened up, right from the start. I am just going to use the chisel and try to get these pieces out to begin with.

Ok, so I have got the centre pieces out so now I have to get the very ends out of the groove that’s there and once I have that out, then I should be able to pry these two strips on the sides inwards so this is where you have to be really careful because you don’t want to pry up against the existing planks that you are trying to leave there so it takes a little bit of care.

I have got those ends out pretty easily, drilling that third hole really helped, I am going to try a red bar. Every time it takes a little bit of experimenting to see what’s going to work the best… getting this to move already, this will be the side… you wouldn’t know this if you put the floor down but for me, I know that this is the side that isn’t nailed so it will be easier to get out to start with. I might need to get this end off.

Ok so there is one side of the board off, now if we can get this other side to do the same thing we’ll be in good shape. So little by little, you just want to keep moving your way along here. So I’ll just continue along, you’ve seen me get one stapler already; I’m just coming up to another one right here which you probably can’t see. So I’m just going to work my way along until I get this out. Okay so you can see I’ve got the main part of the board out, I’ve got a staple here left and half a staple there and a whole bunch of splinters but you can see we haven’t damaged that floor, you got to be real careful about prying against it.